Failed NCT at first attemp :( UPDATE

[TonyC]

Despite me bringing it to my local Mitsubishi garage 1 month ago and getting a full service and instructing them to fix whatever problems they found (new calipers and discs and a few other minor things), which cost 600€ and then for a pre test on saturday (90€) my fto still failed the NCT monday. I'm not even surprised. the car is a 95 GR with 90km on the clock. I'm tempted to give up on it now. My girlfriend bought the car over for me cos i was in work so i only have the sheet and didnt get the testers explanation.Heres whats wrong with it. What do you lads think?
Slide Allignment Test is marked as N/D.
Brake Test is marked as N/D
Emission, High Idle: Lambda is 1.075 and 1.03 is limit
Full Beam is N/a
Fog Light is N/a (Are they a requirement?)
Aux Light is N/a
Now i think my lights failed because the indicator stick (i mean the stick beside the steering wheel that you operate the lights with, whats that called??) is a bit loose so they probably just refused to test it.
Horn not working (MOMO Steering wheel is tempermental)
No Wheel caps removed (i have alloys, was i supposed to remove them??)
Brake Wheel Units (Leaking)
Electrical System is marked as having cut/frayed connections but i dont know what that is.

Other than that the car is in mint condition

what do you lads think?? How much would you say it will cost me?

[Kace]

Despite me bringing it to my local Mitsubishi garage 1 month ago and getting a full service and instructing them to fix whatever problems they found (new calipers and discs and a few other minor things), which cost 600€ and then for a pre test on saturday (90€) my fto still failed the NCT monday. I'm not even surprised. the car is a 95 GR with 90km on the clock. I'm tempted to give up on it now. My girlfriend bought the car over for me cos i was in work so i only have the sheet and didnt get the testers explanation.Heres whats wrong with it. What do you lads think?
Slide Allignment Test is marked as N/D.
Brake Test is marked as N/D
Emission, High Idle: Lambda is 1.075 and 1.03 is limit
Full Beam is N/a
Fog Light is N/a (Are they a requirement?)
Aux Light is N/a
Now i think my lights failed because the indicator stick (i mean the stick beside the steering wheel that you operate the lights with, whats that called??) is a bit loose so they probably just refused to test it.
Horn not working (MOMO Steering wheel is tempermental)
No Wheel caps removed (i have alloys, was i supposed to remove them??)
Brake Wheel Units (Leaking)
Electrical System is marked as having cut/frayed connections but i dont know what that is.

Other than that the car is in mint condition

what do you lads think?? How much would you say it will cost me?

Slide Allignment Test is marked as N/D.
>>> Sounds like N/D is 'Not Done' for some reason ?

Brake Test is marked as N/D
>>> Ditto

Emission, High Idle: Lambda is 1.075 and 1.03 is limit
>>> You should have got your gf to drive the card hard before going to test centre - no action required

Full Beam is N/a
>>> Sounds like it wasn't tested. I presume they are both working.

Fog Light is N/a (Are they a requirement?)
>>> Sounds like it wasn't tested. If the car has them, they will be tested. Do they work ?

Aux Light is N/a
>>> Sounds like it wasn't tested. Do they both work ?

Now i think my lights failed because the indicator stick (i mean the stick beside the steering wheel that you operate the lights with, whats that called??) is a bit loose so they probably just refused to test it.
>>> I think you're right. The guy probably thought he would get electrocuted messing with it

Horn not working (MOMO Steering wheel is tempermental)
>>> Fix this - should be easy - there are only 2 wires.

No Wheel caps removed (i have alloys, was i supposed to remove them??)
>>> B/S - nothing to be done here with alloys

Brake Wheel Units (Leaking)
>>> Sounds like you have a leak that should be repaired - shouldn't be a big deal with some new hoses.

Electrical System is marked as having cut/frayed connections but i dont know what that is.
>>> You need to find out what this is - especially if something is about to give out due to freying.

Sounds like the guys at your Mitsubishi Garage are inept. You should bring the list back to them and ask them why they didn't highlight these things to you. Then go somewhere else to get all future work done.

[colm_mcm]

the wheel nuts have to be visable. if your alloys have centre caps that obscure the nuts, you need to take them off.

[kevinod]

I've only ever had N/a for any of my front bulbs apart from the main beams, I don't think they test full beams or fogs.

[Sebastian]

Tony . Check only RESULTS column !! for PASS or FAIL

and review the FAIL issues.Slide Allignment Test is marked as N/D. -don't know what that is maybe go back and check with them ?
Brake Test is marked as N/D-ditto ^
Emission, High Idle: Lambda is 1.075 and 1.03 is limit
You failed on lambda sensor seems (redex +E5 + good drive before test should be enough)

Full Beam is N/a--------- check last column(RESULTS) if PASS or FAIL
Fog Light is N/a --------- check last column(RESULTS) if PASS or FAIL
Aux Light is N/a -------- check last column(RESULTS) if PASS or FAIL

those things are not tested .they only check DIP BEAM and if it says PASS there then the lights are ok!!!!
Now i think my lights failed because the indicator stick (i mean the stick beside the steering wheel that you operate the lights with, whats that called??) is a bit loose so they probably just refused to test it.

That is marked usualy in ''visual defects'' column - if it's not there then don't worry about it!
Horn not working (MOMO Steering wheel is tempermental)
Horn MUST worrk for the car to PASS .do a search on the forum i's been disscused before

No Wheel caps removed (i have alloys, was i supposed to remove them??)
what colm said
Brake Wheel Units (Leaking)
check where is the leak , probably the brake lines ?
Electrical System is marked as having cut/frayed connections but i dont know what that is.

they do a visual check - do it yourself and try to cover the loose bits

[Bernard]

I'd be straight back to the garage that worked on the car.
Particularly with respect to the brakes, you did spend €600 having new callipers and discs fitted after all.

[CJ]

I'd be straight back to the garage that worked on the car.

^^ what he said.

CJ

[optical illusion]

the wheel nuts have to be visable. if your alloys have centre caps that obscure the nuts, you need to take them off.

Aw thats frikking ghey!! FFS you have to take all 4 wheels off!! Good to know, I suppose, but still annoying.

[colm_mcm]

the wheel nuts have to be visable. if your alloys have centre caps that obscure the nuts, you need to take them off.

Aw thats frikking ghey!! FFS you have to take all 4 wheels off!! Good to know, I suppose, but still annoying.

Ah optical, think about that one for a sec. you wouldn't be able to put the wheels on or off at all if the centre caps covered the wheel nuts AND you had to take the wheels off before removal.
The standard FTO wheels are unusual in that the centre caps are clicked in from the inside.

[optical illusion]

Yes, I did, you got to it before I had time to edit I'm tired, it was a long, hard day. Blonde moment. Guilty as charged

[TonyC]

Update:
Lads thanks for your help first time around. Retest was yesterday and i have passed everything except there is a wheel nut missin. I should have checked this myself but presumed the garage had everything sorted. I rang the garage about it and he said that he had no 17 wheel nuts. He only had 21s.

Does anyone know where i can get 17s ?

(actually my NCT yesterday was comical, straight out of father ted, failed initially then he said he'd pass me, then he said he had to fail me cos it was entered into the system! Yesterday was last day too so i might have to do the whole test again )

[CJ]

Does anyone know where i can get 17s ?

Any motor factors or alloy wheel outlet will be able to supply a nut.

(Note I deleted your post from the Tech section for duplication purposes).

CJ

[TonyC]

cheers CJ. just want to get this sorted asap