Oil & Filter Changes Walkthrough

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Oil & Filter Changes Walkthrough

Postby Dragonheart » Mon Jul 19, 2010 6:01 pm

This is only a guide on how to change the engine oil and filter and how to change the oil from the auto sump and also the filter. It doesn't entail how to go about flushing the system and all that, but it might help for anyone who isn't sure of where the sump plugs and the filters are or the filling points, I know most people will know but its always handy for someone who hasn't done one themselves yet and would like to give it a go.

Firstly, the oil for the engine is 10W40, I use Castrol Magnetec, the filter can be got from a motorfactors, this one is Union C414. The auto oil, (which is a D111), I used isn't the best quality one out there, Amsoil is recommended, and the filter is not the same as the engine filter, (I saw somewhere on the forum where someone was told it was the same by someone;
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Comparison of the 2 filters;
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Close up of engine oil filter box showing name;
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Close up of auto oil filter box showing code;
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Jack the car up, put her on stands and get ready to get dirty.

Engine oil change first so. First thing is to remove the sump plug and drain the oil out, make sure you have the basin ready and also that you don't drop the sump plug into the basin when the oil comes out. Location of the sump plug is at the back of the unit and is turned anti-clockwise to open, think its a 15mm socket but not 100% sure. Plug shown here;
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When the oil is drained out, its time to remove the filter, you'll probably need either a chain or a belt filter opening thingy for this, though sometimes, but rarely, they can be unscrewed by hand. I found it necessary to remove the oil drainer (metal thing in the picture below the filter) to get the right leverage for the chain. Remember that a small bit of oil comes out of this so take care to have the basin ready again. Filter shown below. Again, its goes anti-clockwise to open.
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Once thats done, you fit the new filter, grease the rubber seal with a bit of fresh oil, and screw the filter on by hand. Easy peasy. Then its just a case of putting the new oil into the engine, checking always that you don't put too much in or too little. Obvious enough where it fills, but just for good measure, heres a picture anyway;
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Onto the auto oil so;

Heres the picture of the filter, and also of the filling point, its filled in through the dipstick hole, so its advisable to have a funnel of some sort for this.
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Again, first thing is to drain the box of oil, the box is located on the right hand side of the bay looking in, and the plug for this is located close to the front left hand tyre axle, and uses a 24mm socket to open. Its the larger of the hexagonal screws in the picture, screws anti-clockwise;
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Once the oil is drained, remove the filter, (Anti-clockwise again), no problems with this one, plus there is no oil in this that flows out unlike the oil filter, so its straight forward.
Rub some new oil on the seal of the new filter again, and screw it back on, only hand tighten as before, then its a case of filling the auto box with the oil, checking levels again, and she should be as good as new.

One last thing, this is what not to wear when doing this job;
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Re: Oil & Filter Changes Walkthrough

Postby Bernard » Mon Jul 19, 2010 6:38 pm

Good stuff out of you MJ :smt023
Off to the KB.
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Re: Oil & Filter Changes Walkthrough

Postby Sebastian » Mon Jul 19, 2010 8:09 pm

The man with the FTO head


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no1. manual GR 96 l no2. tip GR 95 l no3. manual Gpx 95 l no.4 manual Gpx 95 l no.5 manual Gpx 96 l no.6 tip GR 95 - in 2011 took a break from the FTO scene
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Re: Oil & Filter Changes Walkthrough

Postby Dragonheart » Mon Jul 19, 2010 8:30 pm

Looked a bit like Ravin' Rabbits there from Rayman with a bit of imagination.

http://www.sextonivel.com/images/2007/11/rabbid.jpg
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Re: Oil & Filter Changes Walkthrough

Postby CJ » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:27 pm

Nice guide Marty :smt023

I know I'm always harping on about this point but its worth repeating - I would encourage tip owners to use ATF adhering to the Mitsubishi Diamond / Diaqueen II/III standard, Dextron III doesn't contain the correct friction inhibitors to provide adequate protection or lubrication during spirited use and @ high operating temperatures.

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Re: Oil & Filter Changes Walkthrough

Postby Dragonheart » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:31 pm

I totally agree CJ, hence why I pointed it out above that the Amsoil should be recommended, but for this one I needed something quick and settled for that stuff, though I know its nowhere near the quality of Mitsi rated oil. Going to make sure to try and have a stock of oil handy in future so that if the need arises for an urgent service again I'll have it handy.
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Re: Oil & Filter Changes Walkthrough

Postby CJ » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:35 pm

Dragonheart wrote:Going to make sure to try and have a stock of oil handy in future so that if the need arises for an urgent service again I'll have it handy.


Excellent idea Marty, you should definitely have some hi-grade ATF on standby. Perhaps this thread might interest you? ;)

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Re: Oil & Filter Changes Walkthrough

Postby Dragonheart » Mon Jul 19, 2010 9:40 pm

Had just replied to your post then came back and saw this. :) Yes it would indeed interest me. :)
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Re: Oil & Filter Changes Walkthrough

Postby Mustang » Thu Aug 26, 2010 6:46 pm

Dragonheart wrote:I found it necessary to remove the oil drainer (metal thing in the picture below the filter) to get the right leverage for the chain. Remember that a small bit of oil comes out of this so take care to have the basin ready again. Filter shown below. Again, its goes anti-clockwise to open.
Image


MJ at the risk of sounding like a teacher correcting your homework. I agree that access to the filter can be tricky.However if the oil filter wrench you have is not suitable for the job I would strongly recommend acquiring a tool that does meet the requirement, rather than remove the 'pouring spout' below the filter. The electrical connection you see below the spout is the the starter motor. The purpose of the spout is to direct oil flow away from the starter motor. Get oil into the starter and you will start to have problems. A suitable oil filter wrench will be cheaper than a new or reconditioned starter.
Otherwise nice job.
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Re: Oil & Filter Changes Walkthrough

Postby Dilogoat86 » Fri Aug 27, 2010 3:05 pm

I find using my hands has been the trustiest and easiest method on any car I've replaced an oil filter on.
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Re: Oil & Filter Changes Walkthrough

Postby Dragonheart » Sun Aug 29, 2010 6:35 pm

Mustang, the tool I had was a filter wrench, a chain filter wrench, I know there are ones you can get that go on a rachet wrench that fit the filter exactly, but when you have a tool at your disposal then you make do with what you have. Appreciate your concern, and thanks for pointing out what that was as to be honest I didnt realise it was the starter motor, but in that case I will for future reference be covering it when taking the filter off.

Dilogoat, if you're strong enough to take the filter off with your hands good for you, a lot of people may be, I find that using the tool is the only way I can get them off, maybe i tighten them too much putting them back on, even though I only hand tighten, after time they tighten up cause of heat or other reasons.
If people think they can take them off without the aid of a proper filter tool it could lead to problems, as in people draining oil and then discovering they cant remove the filter by hand and now need to drive somewhere to get one, but hold on, theres no oil in the sump cause its been drained. I would not advise undertaking this job without having a filter wrench with you first.
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Re: Oil & Filter Changes Walkthrough

Postby Mustang » Sun Aug 29, 2010 8:06 pm

Dragonheart wrote:Mustang, the tool I had was a filter wrench, a chain filter wrench, I know there are ones you can get that go on a rachet wrench that fit the filter exactly, but when you have a tool at your disposal then you make do with what you have. Appreciate your concern, and thanks for pointing out what that was as to be honest I didnt realise it was the starter motor, but in that case I will for future reference be covering it when taking the filter off.


I realise that it was an actual oil filter wrench you were using, I have one of those 'bicycle chain' filter wrenches and I agree it is quite tricky to use on the FTO, due to the access.
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