Oil advice for modifiers!

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Oil advice for modifiers!

Postby oilman » Mon Feb 23, 2009 5:35 pm

If you are "modding" your car and adding BHP then consider your oil choice carefully as the stock manufacturers recommended oil will not give you the protection that your engine requires.

A standard oil will not be thermally stable enough to cope with higher temperatures without "shearing" meaning that the oil will not give the same protection after a couple of thousand miles as it it when it was new.

Let’s start with the fundamentals. An engine is a device for converting fuel into motive power. Car enthusiasts get so deep into the details they lose sight of this!

To get more power, an engine must be modified such that it converts more fuel per minute into power than it did in standard form. To produce 6.6 million foot-pounds per minute of power (ie 200 BHP) a modern engine will burn about 0.5 litres of fuel per minute.(Equivalent to 18mpg at 120mph). So, to increase this output to 300BHP or 9.9 million foot-pounds per minute it must be modified to burn (in theory) 0.75 litres.

However, fuel efficiency often goes out of the window when power is the only consideration, so the true fuel burn will be rather more than 0.75 litres/min.

That’s the fundamental point, here’s the fundamental problem:

Less than 30% of the fuel (assuming it’s petrol) is converted to all those foot-pounds. The rest is thrown away as waste heat. True, most of it goes down the exhaust, but over 10% has to be eliminated from the engine internals, and the first line of defence is the oil.

More power means a bigger heat elimination problem. Every component runs hotter; For instance, piston crowns and rings will be running at 280-300C instead of a more normal 240-260C, so it is essential that the oil films on cylinder walls provide an efficient heat path to the block casting, and finally to the coolant.

Any breakdown or carbonisation of the oil will restrict the heat transfer area, leading to serious overheating.

A modern synthetic lubricant based on true temperature-resistant synthetics is essential for long-term reliability. At 250C+, a mineral or hydrocracked mineral oil, particularly a 5W/X or 10W/X grade, is surprisingly volatile, and an oil film around this temperature will be severely depleted by evaporation loss.

Back in the 1970s the solution was to use a thick oil, typically 20W/50; in the late 1980s even 10W/60 grades were used. But in modern very high RPM engines with efficient high-delivery oil pumps thick oils waste power, and impede heat transfer in some situations.

A light viscosity good synthetic formulated for severe competition use is the logical and intelligent choice for the 21st century.
You must seriously consider a "true" synthetic for "shear stability" and the right level of protection.

Petroleum oils tend to have low resistance to “shearing” because petroleum oils are made with light weight basestocks to begin with, they tend to burn off easily in high temperature conditions which causes deposit formation and oil consumption.

As a result of excessive oil burning and susceptibility to shearing (as well as other factors) petroleum oils must be changed more frequently than synthetics.

True synthetic oils (PAO’s and Esters) contain basically no waxy contamination to cause crystallization and oil thickening at cold temperatures. In addition, synthetic basestocks do not thin out very much as temperatures increase. So, pour point depressants are unnecessary and higher viscosity basestock fluids can be used which will still meet the "W" requirements for pumpability.

Hence, little or no VI improver additive would need to be used to meet the sae 30, 40 or 50 classification while still meeting 0W or 5W requirements.

The end result is that very little shearing occurs within true synthetic oils because they are not "propped up" with viscosity index improvers. There simply is no place to shear back to. In fact, this is easy to prove by just comparing synthetic and petroleum oils of the same grade.

Of course, the obvious result is that your oil remains "in grade" for a much longer period of time for better engine protection and longer oil life.

If you would like advice then please feel free to ask.

Cheers
Guy
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Re: Oil advice for modifiers!

Postby oilman » Tue Mar 25, 2014 5:06 pm

Feel free to contact us here for any oil recommendations or any oil related questions you may have.

Alternatively complete our oil recommendation form and we will get back to you asap. You can also give us a call on 01209 202949 Monday - Friday 8.30am - 5.30pm or just drop us an email to sales@opieoils.co.uk

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Re: Oil advice for modifiers!

Postby oilman » Wed Apr 09, 2014 10:04 am

Hi Folks,

Need help with engine oil, spark plugs, gear oil, filters. It doesn’t matter if it has been modified, or even a classic car, the team at Opie Oils will help you find what you are looking for. Don't forget to;

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If you need any oil advice then we are here to help! You can contact us here, alternatively give us a call on 01209 202944 Monday - Friday 8.30am to 5.30pm or send us an email to sales@opieoils.co.uk

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Re: Oil advice for modifiers!

Postby d_dan » Mon Apr 14, 2014 7:21 pm

Whats your opinion of oil starvation in mivec heads in track conditions? Are there any oils you recommend that are less prone to the oil pump "blending" the oil at high RPM as opposed to pumping it?
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Re: Oil advice for modifiers!

Postby mivecrx » Mon Apr 14, 2014 9:43 pm

d_dan wrote:Whats your opinion of oil starvation in mivec heads in track conditions? Are there any oils you recommend that are less prone to the oil pump "blending" the oil at high RPM as opposed to pumping it?



That's not what happens to them,the oil pickup is the problem. Best thing to do is have it right at the maximum line dipstick. I'm sure when on the track you would want a good oil in the engine anyway.
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Re: Oil advice for modifiers!

Postby oilman » Tue Apr 15, 2014 9:00 am

Hi

No one has come to me about that before, so I didn't realise there was an issue. First thing I'd suggest is to make sure it's the right grade of oil being used - if it's too thick or thin, you may have problems with the oil getting around. If there is a problem with the oil getting around, perhaps going for an ester based oil so it sticks to the metals. Various people have had issues with oil loss (pipes coming off, sump plugs coming out etc), but because they have been using ester based oils, they haven't had any damage.

http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-953-ester-synthetic.aspx

Cheers

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Re: Oil advice for modifiers!

Postby d_dan » Tue Apr 15, 2014 10:20 am

So I have a baffled sump to reduce the chances of pickup issues.
But out Australian counterparts find this the biggest fear when turboing a FTO especially mivec . Maybe something to do with the mivec cams being pneumatically activated.
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Re: Oil advice for modifiers!

Postby oilman » Fri Apr 25, 2014 11:14 am

If your need of any oil advice/recommendations then just ask us here and we will be happy to help.

Alternatively complete our oil recommendation form. You can also give us a call on 01209 202949 Monday - Friday 8.30am - 5.30pm or just drop us an email to sales@opieoils.co.uk

Cheers

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